Monthly Archives: June 2013

Marc Jacobs: Beauty line for Sephora

marc jacobs beauty makeup

Whether it’s ’60s babydoll eyes for spring or glossy red lips for fall, a Marc Jacobs show offers up equally sublime fashion and beauty. But while the designer has three fashion lines in the works — Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, and Louis Vuitton — he’d left our beauty bags to fend for themselves. Until now, that is.

Jacobs has collaborated with Sephora Originals on a comprehensive line of color cosmetics set to finally launch this summer; and while these fashion-designer-meets-beauty ventures tend to be met with skepticism, even the industry analysts are predicting as much as $15 million in revenue for the line’s first quarter. Ladies do love their Marc, and after hearing Jacobs wax poetic about the transforming power of beauty, we’re ready to pick up a palette, too.

He told WWD:

“I like the idea of transforming oneself, making and modeling yourself to what you feel like being, whether that’s once a day, three times a day, seven times a week, whatever it is. I like the transformative qualities of fashion and fashion to me is not just clothing, it’s handbags, it’s shoes, it’s clothes, it’s hair, it’s makeup, it’s fragrance, it’s the whole ritual of making those choices, of enjoying the ritual, of making the choices that will tell the world who you want to be that day. I think everybody is the star in their own movie. And so you dress the part, depending on how you feel or what the part is that day.”

The 122-piece collection is chock full of statement-making maquillage. The collection is broken down into four categories: Smart Complexion foundation and powder, Blacquer eyeliner and lash lifter (Jacobs’ favorite, as well as ours — this editor is a cat-eye devotee), Hi-Per Color lip products and eye shadow, and Boy Tested, Girl Approved unisex essentials. The products we think will flood makeup bags everywhere: the Magic Marc’er Precision Pen Eyeliner ($30) and unisex Brow Tamer Grooming Gel ($24), because who isn’t trying to have their own Cara Delevingne moment these days?

The emphasis on color is bold, with no nude shades, which Jacobs thinks are “a little lazy.” He’ll be putting out the same bold colors we’ve grown to expect in his RTW lines, and explains, “I think there is just a kind of honesty and an ease and an irreverence with this.”

The collection is already tried-and-true thanks to Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon and Sofia Coppola, who even paired her silk pajamas with Marc Jacobs Beauty at the Met Gala. If you don’t have Gordon’s bone structure or Coppola’s glowing skin, don’t worry, because Jacobs’ doesn’t care for perfection. He elaborated:

“I believe in individuality, and what I think comes across as most stylish and modern is a kind of irreverence and a sort of self-confidence,” said Jacobs. “I don’t find beauty in perfection, meaning Photoshop and airbrush. That doesn’t appeal to me. I like a gap between the teeth, I like mascara that does run a little bit or makeup that’s smudged. I like a bit of imperfection — I find it just more interesting.”

Marc Jacobs Beauty will officially launch on August 9, but Sephora will also be hosting a teaser showcase on the weekend of July 19. And there’s even more good news, as holiday and Spring 2014 collections are already in the works. View the collection below, and if you think that designers are indeed beauty savvy, check out the Alber Elbaz x Lancome collaboration, and see what Marchesa and Revlon have planned for your talons.

Siebel: joins forces with Aurum

Juweliersketen Siebel bundelt krachten met groothandel

De juweliersketen Koninklijke Siebel Juweliers gaat fuseren met juweliersgroothandel Aurum. Daarmee moet één sterk blok ontstaan op het gebied van groot- en detailhandel in de juweliersbranche.

Lancering franchisetraject

Dat hebben beide bedrijven maandag bekendgemaakt in een persbericht. De nieuwe fusie-onderneming zet in op een gezonde toekomst voor ondernemers in de juweliersbranche. Naast de eigen winkels, gaat de onderneming ook als franchisegever functioneren. Zo moeten meer starters naar de markt worden getrokken. De nieuwe combinatie denkt ook te kunnen helpen bij de opvolging van zelfstandige juweliers die met pensioen willen gaan.

Siebel bestaat als formule al meer dan een eeuw en beschikt over 37 vestigingen, een outletvestiging in Amsterdam en een eigen webwinkel. Aurum, House of Jewels and Watches omschrijft zichzelf als een internationale handelsorganisatie voor sieraden en horloges. Het bedrijf is enkele jaren geleden ontstaan door de samenvoeging van een aantal kleinere handelaren. De geschiedenis van de samengevoegde bedrijven gaat terug tot 1849.

 

Source: Retail Detail, June 2013

LVMH- Open house draws over 100k visitors

Kenzo at Les Journées Particulières

There are open-house visits, and then there are open-house visits hosted by LVMH. Les Journées Particulières translates literally as “Particular Days.” But in French it suggests a broader notion that encompasses heritage and rarity, making it a fitting title for Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy’s all-access weekend, during which it welcomed the public to peek into the workings of its brands.

Conceived by Antoine Arnault, the first Les Journées Particulières, in 2011, drew an impressive 100,000 visitors across all of its twenty-five locations. After skipping last year, the free event returned on Saturday with an expanded presence: forty-four venues throughout Europe, from the Glenmorangie distillery in the Scottish Highlands to the Fendi leather-goods factory near Florence. Of those, Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, and Christian Dior in Paris span more than 150 years of fashion savoir faire, innovation, and iconic style.

The Kenzo walk-through began in the courtyard of a building that dates back to the mid-seventeenth century. The brand’s spirit announced itself upon entering into a corridor covered in the upcoming Fall ’13 motif: a pattern of eyes wide open. Wink, wink. We see you! Next up: a tableau vivant featuring five members of the studio team, including a specialist who forms the toile and the “mécanicien” who ensures that the pattern and fabric match perfectly. A futuristic hologram video of the Fall women’s collection, with a custom M.I.A. track, confirmed that Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are thinking as much about the digital universe as the one that is hands-on.

Kenzo at Les Journées Particulières

“We have the capability of taking a sketch, and by the end of the day, having a muslin; I don’t think there are very many ready-to-wear brands that have a full atelier [in-house],” said Lim, who has been spending more time in Paris, following the birth of her daughter, and was deep into preparations for the Spring ’14 men’s collection, which will debut next week. “We’re also celebrating the brand; Kenzo Takada is a source of inspiration, and it becomes a question of how we move forward and evolve.”

At the Louis Vuitton factory in Asnières, guests could either sign up for a tour of the special orders “haute maroquinerie” production floor plus a glimpse inside the Vuitton family home (located on the premises, it’s a stunning example of early art nouveau), or a workshop that involved learning how to saddle stitch and paint leather tags (bonus: getting to wear a slick chocolate-brown Vuitton apron). Tough choice.

The brand’s forefather chose Asnières, on the outskirts of central Paris, back in 1859, because of its proximity to the Seine; wood arrived by boat back then. Today, it is one of nine ateliers in France and beyond; yet almost every stage of bag production is still executed by hand. Moreover, a trunk can only be made from dozens of highly specialized tools. Patrick-Louis Vuitton, a fifth-generation family member and director of custom designs, was spotted accompanying French actress Virginie Ledoyen through the workstations; guests seemed more enthralled by the forming of a handle (the point that it meets the bag appears raised thanks to hidden stacked leather discs).

Dior at Les Journées Particulières

Christian Dior’s salons at 30 Avenue Montaigne (above) drew lines before dawn on both days, even though most of the reservations had been allocated online. Re-creations of the brand’s seven in-house ateliers were spaced out around the second floor so that within the span of an hour, people could learn about the brand’s perfumes, the shoes and bags, the men’s suiting, the two Haute Couture ateliers (“tailleur” for tailoring and “flou” for dresses), the baby division, and, finally, watches and jewelry.

There were insights aplenty: a lineup of slim and curvy bust forms that represented actual clients (sans names, natch), the pure white toile designs juxtaposed alongside completed runway versions, the frills of an elaborate Baby Dior dress that had been starched to remain rigid, the hidden hand-stitching to reinforce a men’s lapel, the mossy green wax used to mold a ring, and the table designed to secure the piece of tulle upon which a couturiere sewed bead after bead. Each detail had a raison d’être.

Dior at Les Journées Particulières

A lot of numbers got tossed around during the visits: two hundred hours of workmanship might go into a Dior Haute Couture dress, 150 artisans work at Asnières, the space between each nail on a Vuitton trunk is 11 mm. But to memorize these and take away nothing more would be to miss the multifaceted message of quality over quantity. On one level, the weekend served a promotional purpose—all processes lead to a finished product, after all. The other important point, however, is that Les Journées Particulières is about image preservation. Such a glorified, engaging show-and-tell helps convey that value is often determined by values. And in this way, Les Journées Particulières continues well past the weekend, whether we’re there to witness each stitch or not.

 

Source: Style File online June 2013

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Flagship Store in TriBeCa

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

addicted to retail

 

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Flagship Store in TriBeCa, New York.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada (1960- ) is a Spanish fashion designer. She first became known in the fashion industry in 1981 when she released her first women’s shoe collection. Her brand became licensed in 1991 and she started to include menswear, children’s clothing, and other kinds of merchandise. Her clothes are known for being extremely colorful and vibrant.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada New York is the result of brilliant synergy between two iconic designers. Karim Rashid and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada worked together to redefine the shopping experience using their characteristic joyous color palates and bold shapes.

The central display is tapered, mirroring the angled ceiling, creating a forced perspective in the long space. Forged in stainless steel and black-lit acrylic, the displays are movable for flexibility. Because of the small scale of the interior, the decision was to keep a geometric simplicity with a single bold accent on the side wall.

The striped mirrored wall is accented by Agatha’s iconic heart. The mirrors reflect the street, enlarging the space, and creating a dynamic color changing background for Agatha’s products. The bright geometric shapes play off the brightly colored clothes.

Slicing through the wall is a lit merchandising niche that merges with the point of sale. The sharp angle is accented by a floating translucent acrylic swath. Agatha’s large portrait on cashier back wall beams with her child-like sense of humor. Karim interpreted Agatha’s language to create a whimsical heart patterned wood floor.

Location

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada New York, Inc.
466 Greenwich Street
New York, NY, 10013
+1 212 598 4078
http://www.agatharuizdelaprada.com

source: addicted to retail june 2013

Galeries Lafayette renewd attempt at Asian expansion

Les Galeries Lafayette ont inauguré jeudi un nouveau magasin en Indonésie, avant la Chine en septembre, se lançant ainsi une nouvelle fois à la conquête de l’Asie, nouvel eldorado du luxe, après un premier essai manqué dans les années 80-90.

La voix de Charles Aznavour distille son éternel Formidable, une Tour Eiffel gigantesque grimpe le long des quatre étages et les vendeuses lancent aux chalands un “bonjour” avec un léger accent chuintant: les Galeries Lafayette sont “enfin” arrivées en Indonésie, annonce fièrement une affiche, en français dans le texte.

“Enfin”, pourrait en effet être le mot.

Quatrième pays le plus peuplé de la planète avec 240 millions d’habitants, l’immense archipel est depuis longtemps la nouvelle destination phare des marques de luxe internationales. Avec une croissance supérieure à 6% l’an, la plus élevée du groupe des vingt principaux pays riches et émergents (G20), la plus grande nation musulmane de la planète voit enfler de manière spectaculaire sa classe aisée, à l’appétit féroce pour tout ce qui brille.

Les LVMH, Gucci, Prada et autres Chanel ne cessent d’ouvrir de nouvelles boutiques dans la centaine de centres commerciaux que compte la capitale Jakarta, une mégapole gigantesque d’environ vingt millions d’habitants.

Face à cette ruée vers les juteux marchés d’Extrême-Orient, comme l’Indonésie ou la Chine, les Galeries Lafayette faisaient jusqu’à présent figure de grand absent.

La première économie d’Asie du Sud-Est a pourtant “un potentiel et une croissance très rapide”, déclare à l’AFP Philippe Houzé, président du directoire du groupe.

Le groupe a déjà tenté l’aventure asiatique dans les années 80-90 mais les magasins de Singapour et de Pékin avaient dû fermer, la presse locale parlant de pertes de dizaines de millions d’euros.

“Nous n’avions pas les bons partenaires et les magasins n’étaient pas adaptés”, explique Philippe Houzé.

Cette fois, il s’agit d’un partenariat avec le groupe Mitra Adiperkasa, défini par les Galeries Lafayette, avec ses plus de 1 400 points de vente en Indonésie, comme le premier distributeur local de lifestyle.

La société compte bien ne pas se fourvoyer en adoptant une “démarche professionnelle” qui consiste à “ne pas trop vouloir imposer les composantes des grands magasins français” et à les “mixer avec le style de vie” local, explique le patron.

Il s’agit donc de recréer un bout du boulevard Haussmann en Asie, mais sans oublier qu’on n’est pas chez soi. Zadig et Voltaire côtoie ainsi les “batiks” (tissus imprimés typiquement indonésiens) et une vingtaine de marques sont indonésiennes, parmi les 330 présentes dans ce temple du luxe de 12 000 m², soit environ un sixième de la taille des Galeries à Paris.

Ce concept est le fil rouge de la nouvelle stratégie internationale des Galeries, encore peu présentes à l’étranger. Seuls quatre des 64 Galeries (en comptant l’indonésien) se trouvent hors de France: Berlin a ouvert en 1996, puis Dubaï en 2009 et Casablanca en 2011. Pékin doit suivre en septembre prochain, avant la Turquie et le Qatar en 2015.

“Des discussions sont en cours” pour d’autres pays, confie Thierry Prévost, directeur du développement international, évoquant la Malaisie et les Philippines, voire Singapour.

Le groupe, qui a réalisé un chiffre d’affaires de 3,7 milliards d’euros de ventes de détail en 2012, ne dévoile pas les montants investis. Son patron Philippe Houzé se dit de toute façon confiant, même pour le magasin de Pékin, qui doit ouvrir au moment où la croissance du géant asiatique ralentit.

“Il ne s’agit pas d’une histoire de quelques mois ou de quelques années. On ouvre pour défricher un pays, on est là pour le long terme”, assure-t-il.

A Jakarta, où le magasin a effectué une pré-ouverture fin avril, les premiers chiffres de fréquentation sont “bons”, assure une source proche de la direction du magasin, qui a pour ambition d’attirer 700 000 visiteurs par an.

Les premiers clients semblaient en tout cas ravis. “C’est bien qu’ils en ouvrent un ici. On n’a plus besoin de voyager et on peut faire ses achats à Jakarta”, se réjouit Liz Gusman, une “Ibu-Ibu” (femme mariée à un riche Indonésien) habituée à prendre l’avion pour faire son shopping dans les grands magasins parisiens.

Douglas seeks to acquire Nocibé

Die deutsche Parfümkette Douglas ist unter den Bewerbern zur Übernahme ihres französischen Konkurrenten Nocibé, der von seinem Eigentümer, dem britischen Investmentfonds Charterhouse, zum Verkauf angeboten wird, so die französische Tageszeitung Le Figaro ohne genaue Quellen zu nennen.

Douglas gehört zum amerikanischen Fonds Advent International

Laut der Tageszeitung könnte Nocibé mit Douglas zur Nummer Zwei unter den französischen Parfümketten werden, hinter Sephora (LVMH) und vor Marionnaud, und das obwohl es Douglas nie gelungen ist, auf dem französischen Markt Fuß zu fassen.

Douglas, gerade vom amerikanischen Fonds Advent International übernommen, könnte auf einen anderen Interessenten, das Tandem aus dem französischen Fonds LBO France und dem chinesischen Mischkonzern Fosun, treffen. Von den beiden Kandidaten, scheint Douglas jedoch «der motiviertere» zu sein, zumal er von der Förderung seines neuen Aktionärs profitiert, so Le Figaro.

Charterhouse hatte Nocibé 2006 gekauft und im April zum Verkauf angeboten, eine Entscheidung soll im Juli getroffen werden. Ursprünglich hatte der Fonds, der von Lazard und Morgan Standley beraten wird, Angebote nur bis Mitte Juni entgegen nehmen wollen. Jetzt haben interessierte Käufer bis Ende des Monats Zeit, so die Tageszeitung.

 

FashionMag June 2013

Zalando wins e-commerce award

Am 3. Juni wurden die European E-commerce Awards 2013 vom E-commerce Europe-Verband vor etwa 400 Professionellen der Branche vergeben.

Die Preisträger der European E-Commerce Awards 2013

Den ersten Platz in der Kategorie „Cross Border“ ging an den britischen Online-Modehändler ASOS, die Jury lobte seine Innovation. Nach Gold im vergangenen Jahr gewann Zalando dieses Jahr Silber. Mit dem dritten Platz in der Kategorie schaffte es Amazon.

Der „Entrepreneurial Award“ wurde an die französische Seite Vestiaire Collective verliehen, ein Unternehmen, das die Jury mit seinem dynamischen Retour-Prozess, bei dem Kunden Produkte sofort wieder in den Verkauf zurück geben können, beeindruckte. Den zweiten und dritten Platz in der Kategorie machten das niederländische Unternehmen Coolblue und die Dänen Unisport.dk.

Alle drei Multichannel-Awards gingen an die Briten: John Lewis gewann Gold, gefolgt von Marks & Spencer und Burberry mit Silber und Bronze.

Amazon is Europe’s largest online retailer

Amazon is grootste Europese e-tailer

Het Amerikaanse Amazon.com is de grootste Europese e-tailer: de webreus neemt er 5,3% van alle aankopen die via het internet worden gedaan voor zijn rekening. Daarna volgen het Duitse Otto en verkoper van kantoorbenodigdheden Staples, zo blijkt uit de ‘Europe 500’-ranglijst van Internet Retailer.

Amazon met kop en schouders bovenuit

De totale Europese online markt werd vorig jaar volgens het Centre for Retail Research op 232,17 miljard euro geschat, 16% meer dan in 2011. De grootste 500 retailers trokken daarvan 93,64 miljard euro naar zich toe. Alleen al de grootste 100 waren goed voor een online omzet van 75 miljard euro.
Daarbij spant het Amerikaanse Amazon.com duidelijk de kroon: in 2012 sleet de e-tailer voor 12,36 miljard euro aan goederen via het net, wat goed was voor een marktaandeel van 5,3%. Vooral in Duitsland en het Verenigd Koninkrijk doen de Amerikanen goede zaken.
Om dat te runnen, heeft het bedrijf een netwerk van 22 distributiecentra in Europa uitgebouwd. Ook opende Amazon vorig jaar specifieke sites voor Spanje en Italië. Bovendien werden eind 2012 nieuwe distributiecentra geopend in Spanje en Zuid-Frankrijk.

Europa nog vrij gefragmenteerd

De tweede in de rij is het Duitse Otto. Dat haalde vorig jaar een online omzet van 5,64 miljard euro, waarvan liefst 40% buiten thuisland Duitsland. Desalniettemin blijft de e-tailer nog op ruime afstand van Amazon.
Internet Retailer merkt wel belangrijke verschillen tussen de VS en Europa. Zo is de impact van lokale spelers in Europa nog een stuk groter, wegens de verschillende talen, de verschillende munteenheden en de verschillende winkelervaringen. Bijgevolg is de markt er ook meer gefragmenteerd.

 

De top 10 van Internet Retailer:

  1. Amazon.com (VS)
  2. Otto (Duitsland)
  3. Staples (VS)
  4. Home Retail Group (VK)
  5. Tesco (VK)
  6. Apple (VS)
  7. CDiscount.com (Frankrijk)
  8. Tengelmann (Duitsland)
  9. Shop Direct Group (VK)
  10. Sainsbury’s (VK)

Fashion United, June 2013

Bristol sells shirts benefiting Make-a-Wish Foundation

Kledingwinkel Bristol lanceert in samenwerking met Make-A-Wish Nederland een T-shirt collectie voor volwassenen, tieners en kinderen. De shirts zijn ontworpen in samenwerking met de medewerkers en vrijwilligers van de stichting.

Make-A-Wish laat de wens van zieke kinderen in vervulling gaan. Bristol wil hier graag een bijdrage aan leveren, omdat het bedrijf belang hecht aan familiale waarden.
Van elk T-shirt dat verkocht is, wordt 10 procent van de verkoopprijs gedoneerd aan de organisatie.

Heren T-shirtPeuter T-shirt
Meisjes T-shirtPeuter T-shirtJongens T-shirt

 

Source: Fashion Daily June 2013

US & EU in Free Trade talks at G8

The United States and European Union launched negotiations on one of the world’s most ambitious free-trade agreements on Monday, promising thousands of jobs and speedier growth on both sides of the Atlantic.

Such a plan was first considered three decades ago but knocked down by France in the 1990s. Europe has now managed to get Paris onside, opening the way to a deal that could boost the EU and U.S. economies by more than $100 billion a year each.

“This is a once in a generation prize and we are determined to seize it,” said British Prime Minister David Cameron, flanked by U.S. President Barack Obama and the presidents of the European Commission and the European Council at the Group of Eight summit near Enniskillen in Northern Ireland.

The first round of negotiations will take place in Washington on July 8, the White House said in a statement.

U.S. President Barack Obama (2nd L) attends a news conference with (L-R) European Council President Herman Van Rompuy, European Commission President Jose Manuel Barroso and Britain's Prime Minister David Cameron at the G8 summit in Enniskillen, Northern Ireland June 17, 2013. REUTERS/Andrew Winning

The United States and Europe account for almost half of the world’s total output and a third of its trade. A free-trade deal therefore holds the prospect of massive economic gains and accompanying jobs.

While both U.S. and EU negotiators are aware that a final deal will be tough to clinch, they are also conscious of the rising power and influence of China and the need to deepen Western economic integration in order to compete with Asia.

Issues over media protection and “cultural exception” could still complicate negotiations.

France had threatened to block the start of talks until the EU’s other 26 governments accepted its demand to shield movies and online entertainment from competition from Hollywood and Silicon Valley.

Paris eventually won its exception, but Jose Manuel Barroso, the president of the European Commission, said on Monday opposition to a fully comprehensive trade deal was “reactionary” and part of an anti-globalization agenda.

That sparked a stern response from French President Francois Hollande and other French officials, underlining just how sensitive negotiations over the coming 18 months are set to be.

Obama also warned against narrowing the scope of negotiations.

“It is important that we get it right and that means resisting the temptation to downsize our ambitions or avoid tough issues just for the sake of getting a deal,” he said.

‘POLITICAL WILL’

The United States and the European Commission, the executive arm of the 27-country European Union, hope for a free-trade deal by the end of 2014 – a tight deadline in complex international trade talks that usually take many years.

“We must maintain that political will in the months ahead,” Cameron said.

The London-based Centre for Economic Policy Research estimates a pact – to be known as the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership – could boost the EU economy by 119 billion euros ($159 billion) a year, and the U.S. economy by 95 billion euros.

However, a report commissioned by Germany’s non-profit Bertelsmann Foundation and published on Monday, said the United States may benefit more than Europe. A deal could increase GDP per capita in the United States by 13 percent over the long term but by only 5 percent on average for the European Union, the study found.

Businesses on both sides would like an agreement in which a car tested for safety in the United States would not have to be tested again in Europe, and a drug deemed safe by Brussels would not have to be approved as well by the U.S. government.

Following the collapse of global trade talks in 2008, both the United States and Europe have sought to strike as many free-trade agreements as possible, and Brussels alone is negotiating with more than 80 countries.

 

Reuters June 2013